Australian Shepherds FAQ
Author
Copyright
1997 by Randy 'n Monica Barger, Roanoak@InetNebr.com
Roanoak
Australian Shepherds
Last
updated
Australian
Shepherds are a truly versatile breed. Not only are they agile working dogs,
they are also extremely intelligent animals and wonderful family companions. A
very endearing quality of Aussies is their intense desire to please their
owners; this makes them quick learners and loyal friends. Aussies are naturally
reserved with strangers, but they should never be shy or timid. They do have
strong territorial instincts and are naturally possessive and protective of
their owners and home. When raised with children, Aussies love kids and quickly
become a predictable and devoted family member. Aussies do not need a huge yard
to run in, but they do need daily exercise and attention. They love to play ball
and frisbee. It's hard to keep most of them out of water. And they make great
foot warmers curled up at the end of the bed.
Origin
[There
are several theories about the origin of the Australian Shepherd, but this one
is the most common.]
Despite
its name, the Australian Shepherd as we know it today was developed completely
within the
The
Australian Shepherd Club of America (ASCA) was formed in 1957 to promote the
breed, and several clubs kept breed registries. A unified standard was adopted
in 1976, and the registries combined in 1980. The National Stock Dog Registry (NSDR)
keeps a separate Australian Shepherd registry.
In
1992 the American Kennel Club (AKC) granted recognition to the Australian
Shepherd, although ASCA did not become the affiliate parent club. The United
States Australian Shepherd Association was formed to be the AKC parent breed
club. AKC allowed open registration for two years before closing the registry,
so now many Aussies are dual or even triple registered.
Those
of us who love Aussies can't imagine a more perfect breed of dog. Unfortunately,
the very characteristics we value in these dogs make them unsuitable for some
homes and owners. Consider carefully if your lifestyle can accommodate the
exuberance of a typical Aussie.
The
Australian Shepherd was developed to be a moderate-sized, intelligent,
all-purpose stock dog of great character and endurance. Many Aussies today still
do the work they were bred for, and even those that have never seen sheep or
cattle usually have a strong herding instinct. This means that Aussies need
fenced yards and leashes, as the temptation to herd dogs, children, and traffic
can simply overwhelm them.
Being
bred to work hard all day means that most Aussies are not content to be couch
potatoes, although Aussies have individual characters and some are more sedate
and quiet-natured than others. For the most part, however, these are high-energy
dogs that need a purpose in their lives, a job as it were. Owners must be
committed to give these dogs the time and attention they require through play
and training, for as with any dog, undirected energy can turn towards
destructive behaviors, such as digging and chewing. Running, jumping, and
rough-housing are all a part of being a normal Aussie.
The
great intelligence of these dogs, necessary to out-think and control livestock,
can be detrimental when left untrained and unused. Aussies are quite capable of
out-thinking their owners. Obedience training is highly recommended as a means
of teaching owners how to channel the typical Aussie's innate desire to please
into appropriate behaviors. Aussies learn very quickly, so be certain you are
willing to keep your Aussie occupied with walks, play, and training to benefit
both mind and body.
Although
many Aussies are friendly with everyone, the Australian Shepherd as a breed
tends to be somewhat reserved and cautious around strangers. With Aussies of
this nature, owners should encourage the dog to meet people but not force
encounters. Aussies are often quite protective of their family and property, a
desirable trait in some situations but not acceptable in others, and some dogs
never accept strangers. As with all dogs, poorly socialized Aussies may become
aggressive without proper training.
In
general, Aussies are healthy dogs and can be expected to live up to twelve years
or more, so ownership can be a lengthy commitment. Although minimal, there is
some grooming required to keep the coat clean and conditioned, such as regular
brushing and nail trimming. To maintain their high energy levels, typical active
Aussies may eat more than other, more sedate dogs of similar size, so be
prepared to feed plenty of high quality food.
Aussies
are perfect for people wishing to own a highly-trainable, versatile, super-smart
dog that can work/play "'till the cows come home." If you have the
time and commitment for an Aussie, you won't be disappointed. These special dogs
deserve special owners. Their loyalty, drive, character, and whimsical sense of
humor place them in a class by themselves!
This
may be found at ASCA's website: http://www.asca.org/Programs/Conformation/breed.htm
The
AKC's standard may be found at the AKC website: http://www.akc.org/breeds/recbreeds/ausshep.cfm
Aussie
Rescue is a network of volunteers who rescue Australian Shepherds and find them
new, permanent homes. These dogs are rescued from just about any kind of
situation. Some are from puppy mills, some are adopted from shelters. Many come
into the program because their former owner had to move and couldn't take the
dog, or because the dog was harassing the livestock. There are some very
wonderful dogs that are saved from destruction by Aussie Rescue. Knowledgeable
rescuers can help make sure that a rescued Aussie is right for you. An Internet
resource for Aussie Rescue may be found at http://www.interspect.com/~brachman/aussies/rescue/
How can I find a responsible breeder?
If
you've decided that a rescue Aussie isn't a possibility, there are some
guidelines to follow when choosing an Aussie breeder.
Choosing
an Aussie, or any dog for that matter, can be a very emotional experience. It is
all too easy to see a cute, little bundle of fluff and instantly fall in love.
Sometimes you can get lucky and fall into the right situation at the right time
and take home the perfect puppy, but too often people make the wrong decisions
for the wrong reasons and end up with a lot of heartache in the long run.
The
Aussie Connection is
a great place to start. From there, you can find other breeder listings (ASCA
& USASA) as well as affiliate club contacts. The Aussie Connection
can be found at: http://www.angelfire.com/anime/theaussieconnection/
Or email me (Roanoak@InetNebr.com)
for help.
What should I ask the breeder?
The
following is a list of questions to take with you when you visit each breeder
and litter. Do not feel embarrassed asking all these questions; a responsible
breeder will welcome your interest and admire your knowledge and concern for the
breed.
If
your new pup is sold with registration papers it is important to make sure the
papers you receive are from the correct registry for your purposes.
ASCA
stands for Australian Shepherd Club of America and is the parent registry for
the Australian Shepherd, founded in 1957. ASCA keeps stud books on all
registered Aussies; registers purebred Australian Shepherd pups and adults;
sanctions conformation and obedience shows; and has a working trial program that
allows Aussies to earn herding titles.
IESR
stands for International English Shepherd Registry and is also referred to as
NSDR, the National Stock Dog Registry. This registry is not active in
sanctioning their own events; it is basically just a paper registry. Aussies
registered only with this registry, even though they may be a purebred
Australian Shepherd, are not allowed to compete in ASCA sanctioned events for
ASCA conformation titles.
AKC
stands for the American Kennel Club. Again, if a puppy is only registered with
AKC, it will not be allowed to compete in ASCA conformation shows for ASCA
titles. And vice versa, dogs only registered with ASCA will not be allowed to
compete in AKC conformation shows for AKC titles.
An
Australian Shepherd may be registered with any or all of these registries; this
is where the term double or triple registered comes from. Ask the breeder to
which registries their pups are eligible for and ask to see the registration
applications if you have any doubts.
If
you have no intentions of showing or breeding your puppy, then the registry your
pup is eligible for is not as pertinent. But if you do intend to show or breed,
registration with ASCA is a must and registration with AKC is something worth
considering. Talk to the breeder for background information on ASCA and AKC and
to anyone else who can shed light on the situation.
Make
a point to look at several litters before making your final decision. Take note
of the conditions in which the adults and pups are being raised. Is their
environment clean? Is there adequate room for exercise, plenty of shade and
shelter? Do the older dogs appear to be happy and well cared for? Ask to see the
sire and dam if possible. Do they seem to be well mannered and not aggressive or
fearful? Remember that the dam may still be a little protective if introduced
around the pups, and her condition may not be the best since raising a family is
quite demanding. The pups should be outgoing and eager to play. The puppies
should look well fed, their coats should be clean and healthy, their gums should
be pink, their eyes should be clear of any discharge, the inside of the ears
should not be red or inflamed, and the pups in general should have a healthy,
happy attitude. Spend some time playing with the puppies and get a feel for
their different personalities. Ask the breeder for further background on puppies
that catch your eye; sometimes a pup may have a slightly different character
than the one he displays while you are visiting. A concerned breeder will be
honest and candid in discussing each puppy with you since their goal is to find
the pup that will most likely match your lifestyle and fulfill your
expectations. After leaving, make notes on the puppies you liked and on your
general impressions. Do this with each litter you visit. Then, when you feel
like you have a good basis for comparison, sit down and go over your notes. Call
back with any additional questions you might have, or go back and visit again if
you need to. Emotions are still going to play a big part in your decision, but
at least with all this information at hand, you now have the basis for making an
educated decision as well.
Should I get a male or a female?
Although
male and female Australian Shepherds share many of the same characteristics,
there are also many distinct differences between the two sexes.
The
female Australian Shepherd will typically stand between 18-21 inches at the
point of her withers and will on average weigh around 35-50 pounds. She does not
usually carry the density and length of coat as a male, and her personality will
generally be more sensitive and laid-back. Females will come into season
approximately every 6 months and will need to be confined for 2-3 weeks during
this time. If you are not planning on breeding your female, you should consider
spaying her to avoid this inconvenience and to prevent any unwanted breeding.
The
male Australian Shepherd will usually stand 20-23 inches and will weigh around
50-65 pounds. As with most animal species, the male Aussie is the showier of the
two sexes, carrying longer hair, heavier bone, and a more masculine head. He
typically has a very regal air about him. Males do have a tendency to be
territorial and do not always take well to having to share their space with
other male canines. Again, if you are not planning on using your male for stud,
you should think about having him neutered to make life easier for all parties
concerned.
Most
of the personality differences between the two sexes are minimal or non-existent
if the animals in question are spayed/neutered.
Should I get show/breeding quality or pet
quality?
Pet
quality puppies are those which are healthy and happy but are less than perfect
when compared to the breed standard. Often these imperfections are minimal and
are things that the novice would not notice. Nonetheless, these animals would
not be likely to do well in the conformation show ring, and they should NOT be
used for breeding since they will not contribute to the improvement of the
breed. Pet quality animals are eligible to be shown in both obedience and
herding competitions, even if they have been spayed or neutered. It is important
to remember that just because a puppy is termed a "pet", it should not
have any health or temperament defects.
If
you have any thoughts of either showing or breeding your pup, advise the breeder
of what your intentions are. In this situation you are going to want to buy the
pup that comes the closest to perfection according to the breed standard. Not
every pup is a future champion and no one can guarantee you that any puppy will
grow up to be a perfect specimen of the breed. But a knowledgeable breeder can
spot puppies with potential qualities and will be honest with you in evaluating
their puppies as future show or breeding prospects.
What should I pay for an Aussie?
Proper
raising of a litter of healthy, happy Aussie pups takes time and effort on the
part of a conscientious, informed breeder and is an expensive proposition if
done properly. The breeder has invested in good nutrition, good veterinary care,
showing, stud fees to a top quality dog, along with a great deal of time and
love in the hope of producing better specimens of the breed and quality dogs for
the prospective buyer.
Price
should be consistent with the quality of the pup and the time and expense it has
taken to raise that pup. For these reasons, it is unlikely that an inexpensive
puppy will be the result of conscientious breeding and careful upbringing.
Remember too that your initial investment in a puppy is going to be next to
nothing in comparison to the investment you are going to make in that puppy's
future.
Average
pet quality puppies generally fall in the range of $300-900. Breeding quality
puppies/dogs generally range from $600-on up.
What should I get with my new Aussie?
When
you make your final selection, make sure the following items are in order before
you pay for your new puppy:
|
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An
individual registration application, or a registration certificate, or a
written agreement signed by both parties stating the reason for not giving
any registration privileges. |
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A written
sales agreement outlining all terms and conditions that the buyer and
seller have previously agreed upon. |
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A
pedigree with at least three generations. |
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A
photocopy of the hip rating certificate (OFA, PennHIP, or GDC) of both the
sire and the dam. |
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A
photocopy of either the eye clearance certificate (CERF or GDC), or the
opthalmologist's exam papers of both the sire and the dam. |
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A
schedule of dates and types of vaccines, worms, and any other treatments
the puppy has received, as well as a recommended schedule for further
vaccinations and worms. |
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A feeding
schedule and enough of the puppy's regular food to last at least 24 hours,
as well as recommendations on what types of food to feed. |
|
|
Any
reading material on the breed or puppy care that the breeder may have to
offer. |
How can I make my Aussie the best dog in the world?
Congratulations
on your new pup! We feel that you will find the experience special and
rewarding. To help make the ownership of this dog positive and enjoyable, here
are a few things to consider that we hope will be of help.
It
is always an exciting time when you welcome a new puppy into your home. You need
to remember, though, that it can also be a stressful and confusing time for the
new pup. You should provide a sleeping area, preferably near the activities of
the household, but also quiet and out of the way. A dog crate would be a good
investment at this time. Let the puppy know this is his bed and a safe place to
be. If there are children in the family, they will want to play with the new
puppy a lot. While puppies play and are active, they also require a good deal of
sleep. Do not fall in the trap of going to the puppy to comfort him for making
noise. He will learn that crying is a good way to get attention. You might take
him out to play with him and tire him out just a little before bedtime so he
will be ready to sleep.
A
name brand puppy food is the best choice for your puppy until he is over a year
old. It is a good idea to feed what the breeder has been feeding and not change
his diet, since changes can lead to digestive problems and diarrhea. Also, your
puppy does not need table scraps, which may likewise cause problems. Never give
your puppy bones or chocolate. You may either free-feed (leave food out) or put
down food for the puppy three, decreasing to two times a day as the puppy
matures. Fresh water should be available to the puppy at all times. Watch your
puppy to make sure he does not get too fat. A fat puppy is not a healthy puppy
and obesity is hard on developing bones and joints. Be sure you keep your
puppy's vaccinations up-to-date. Distemper and Parvo are both killers and if
your puppy should survive these (and other) dreaded diseases, they may still
ruin his health for the remainder of his life. Talk to your vet about heartworm
preventative. Heartgard, which uses Ivermectin, should not be used for Aussies
since they are a "collie-type" breed. A brand that doesn't use
Ivermectin, such as Interceptor, is recommended instead.
Aussies
generally housebreak quite easily. The key to good house habits is consistency
by the owner. The puppy should, if he must be left alone, be in the yard (with
shelter and water) or in an area where he is not expected to refrain from
relieving himself. When the puppy is in the main part of the house, the owner
should be present. When the puppy wakes from a nap, he should go outside and be
praised when he relieves himself. Watch the puppy for sniffing and circling in
the house; this probably means he is looking for a place to go. Take him outside
and again praise. If you catch him too late, "in the act," do not
spank him but scold him slightly and take him outside or to a place where he is
allowed to potty. Soon the puppy may go to the door and "ask" to be
let out. Praise the puppy for this action. A crate is a handy tool for
housebreaking. Most dogs do not like to relieve themselves where they sleep and
this teaches some control. Remember that a puppy does not have a great deal of
control and use the crate only for short periods of time. When he comes out of
the crate, he should be immediately let outside and, after he relieves himself,
allowed to play in the house.
To
some people, a dog crate seems like cruelty to the dog. However, if presented
correctly, it is just the opposite. It gives the dog a place that belongs to
him, a safe den where he can go if he wants to be left alone or rest. It also
gives you a place to keep your dog at the times when you do not want him
underfoot, like a dinner party or a cookout, and a safe way of traveling your
dog. If you crate your dog in the car, he can be left with the windows
completely down. It is extremely dangerous to leave your dog in a closed car in
warm weather or riding loose in the back of a truck. Also if you should have an
auto accident, your dog is not likely to be thrown out of the car or escape in
the confusion. Motel rooms generally prefer crated dogs. To crate train your
dog, first select a crate that will be large enough to fit him as an adult. The
puppy should be fed in his crate, and encouraged to sleep in it with the door
open. He may be left with the door closed for short periods of time once he is
used to it. Avoid leaving a puppy in a crate for extended periods of time. NEVER
use the crate as a punishment. The location should be out of the way but near
family activity.
The
Aussie is by nature a one-family or one-person dog. They do not accept all
people as their natural "friends" as do some breeds. They are
selective. This is not a fault. It makes them a better protector of their home
and their family. Because of this part of their nature, it is a good idea to
expose them to different situations and strangers often and at an early age.
While they may not go tail-waggingly up to every stranger on the street, they
should be taught to be mannerly and accept the presence of non-threatening
people and situations.
The
Australian Shepherd is an easy dog to train. Being a working stock dog, he has
been bred to learn to take directions and listen to his owner. He is also bred
to be able to think on his own and make decisions for himself. It is up to you,
the owner, to teach the dog what is, and is not, allowed. When he is a puppy, he
must learn to look to you as his leader or you could be in for trouble when he
becomes an adult. This does not mean you need to treat your puppy roughly. If
trained correctly, Aussies readily accept the authority of their masters and a
harsh word is often as effective as physical punishment. While he is eating,
your puppy should allow you to be present and to take away his food. He should
not growl or nip at you when you try to make him do something. A good method to
show a puppy who is boss is to pick him up by both sides of the scruff of his
neck and shake him gently while looking him in the eye and speaking firmly. This
is very similar to the way a mother dog disciplines her pups and he will
understand this far better than a spanking or a swat with a newspaper. Aussies
are very intelligent and will test you from time to time. You should be firm and
let them know who is in charge. The earlier you do this, the less trouble you
will have later. A dog who knows his place in the family is far happier and more
secure.
It
is highly recommended that you teach your puppy some obedience. It is much more
enjoyable to have a well-mannered dog that can go out for a walk than a
lurching, wild dog that pulls you along or runs away when off lead. It is also a
satisfying experience to train your dog and have a dog that listens to you and
minds you. The Aussie is an extremely quick learner and enjoys the attention and
the mental challenge of learning what you have to teach him. Even a young puppy,
if taught in a positive manner, with no force, can learn basic obedience. Look
for obedience training classes in your area or read some of the many good books
on this subject. For your peace of mind, and your dog's safety, he should know
at least these basics: sit, down, stay, come, and be able to walk at your side.
Are Aussies good with children?
Australian
Shepherds are basically very good with children if they have been raised with
children, and sometimes even when they have not been around them. One of the
basic prerequisites for your children and your puppy to have a good relationship
is to teach the child, as well as the puppy, what is allowed. Babies and
toddlers should not be left unattended with your dog, no matter what breed. A
child should learn not to handle the dog roughly or tease him. The parent, not
the child, should be responsible for correcting the puppy if he gets too rough.
Puppies and dogs have a tendency to look at children as "siblings" in
the social order of the family, and the dog should never be allowed to get the
upper position over the child. Something that sometimes occurs with Aussie
puppies and kids is that, in play, the puppy may chase and nip at the heels of
the child. This is because the dog is bred to herd and he is trying to
"herd" the child because it is natural to herd something moving. In
this situation, it is a good idea to have the child stop running and tell the
dog "no bite." This should not be confused with actually trying to
harm the child, but the game should not be encouraged.
Unlike
many breeds, Aussies don't need a lot of space to run or a big yard to play in.
What they DO need is LOTS of social interaction and things to do. They need to
be a member of the family, as they are very pack-oriented dogs. In short, they
need a job to do, whether that job is working livestock, protecting the family,
or going to obedience/agility classes. The more time you spend with them, the
better companions they will be. As long as these needs are met, Aussies can make
wonderful suburban pets.
The
Aussie Connection
should be your next internet stop. There you can find information about national
clubs, affiliate clubs, breeders & enthusiasts, email discussion lists, and
more. The Aussie Connection can be found at: http://www.angelfire.com/anime/theaussieconnection/.
Also
check out the Australian Shepherd Homepage at: http://www.everett.net/users/jimmb/aussie.html,
as there is some great information there, as well as many references to check
out.
If
you have questions that are not addressed in this FAQ, please email me at Roanoak@InetNebr.com.
What are the standard color genetics?
B
- Black gene
b
- Red gene
BB
- Black dog (not red factored)
Bb
- Black dog (red factored)
bb
- Red dog
The
black/red gene is a simple dominant/recessive trait. Two BB (black)
dogs will produce all BB (black) dogs.
Two bb (red) dogs will produce all bb
(red) dogs. One BB
(black) dog bred to one bb (red) dog
will produce all Bb (black) dogs. The merle gene is completely separate from the color
gene. The merle gene is an incomplete dominant gene. It is NOT straight
dominant/recessive like black & red.
M
- Merle gene
m
- Solid gene
MM
- Excessive white dog (aka double-merle, lethal-white, lethal-merle)
Mm
- Merle dog
mm
- Solid dog
As
you can see from the charts below, two solids bred together will produce all
solids. One solid dog bred to one merle dog will produce 50% merles and 50%
solids. Two merles bred together will produce 25% solids, 50% merles, and 25%
lethal-white. Which brings us to the next question in the FAQ below.
Solid X Solid = Solid X Merle =
Merle X Merle =
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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m |
m
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m |
m
|
M |
m
--------------- ---------------
---------------
m |
mm |
mm
m |
mm |
mm
M |
MM |
Mm
m |
mm |
mm
M |
Mm |
Mm
m |
Mm |
mm
Should merle-to-merle breedings be done?
The
merle color seems to be a trademark for Aussies. Non-merled Aussies are often
mistaken for other breeds or mutts. However, the merle gene can be lethal to the
uneducated breeder.
The
merle gene is an incomplete dominant gene - NOT a simple recessive. This gene is
also completely separate from the color genes (black, red, tan, white, etc.).
A
dog with one merle gene and one solid gene will be a normal merle dog. A dog
with two solid genes will be a solid (black or red). A dog with two merle genes
will be a double-merle (a.k.a. lethal white, excessive white, or lethal merle).
These double-merle dogs are usually predominantly white, and most often are deaf
and/or blind, and can develop numerous other problems, such as organ failure,
auto-immune disorders, and other disorders.
The
only way to get double-merle dogs is if two merles are bred together. If two
merles are bred together, approximately 25% of the litter will be double-
merles. Because of all the problems that double-merles are born with, they must
be euthanized at birth.
Some
breeders feel that bringing puppies into the world and then euthanizing them is
wrong. Other breeders have no qualms whatsoever about these breedings. Many
responsible breeders feel that a merle-merle breeding should be done only for an
exceptional cross.
So,
the issue becomes a personal decision, one breeders must make for themselves.
For more information on the merle gene in Aussies, contact:
Editor, Double Helix Network News
(209) 264-2685
What are the most common genetic diseases?
There
are many diseases that affect Australian Shepherds. The most common of these are
eye diseases include:
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Cataracts |
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CEA
(Collie Eye Anomaly) |
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PRA
(Progressive Retinal Atrophy) |
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Detached
Retinas |
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Colobomas |
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Small eye |
Other
diseases that commonly affect Aussies are:
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CHD
(Canine Hip Dysplasia) |
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vWD (von
Willebrand's Disease) |
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PH (Pelger-Huet) |
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Epilepsy |
Eye
and hip problems are much more common than any of the others, so be sure that
breeders have clearances on hips (OFA, PennHIP, GDC) and eyes (CERF, GDC) for
all their breeding stock.
For
more information on genetic diseases in Aussies, contact:
Editor, Double Helix Network News
(209) 264-2685
Many
Aussie tails are naturally bobbed (NBTs). NBTs can come in almost any length.
Natural tails (long tails) taper at the end, whereas NBTs stop short at a stub
or "bob". Those dogs with long NBTs or with natural tails are most
often docked.
Probably
the most popular reason for short tails is due to working. Tails have a
different coat texture and are more prone to collect burrs when working in dense
brush. These burrs, if left untended, can cause extreme pain and irritation to
the dog. Also, there have been many undocumented cases of tails being broken
from cattle stepping on them and gates being slammed shut on them.
Another
reason cited is that the short tail is a "signature," or recognizable
characteristic, of the breed. The breed standard calls for a tail less than four
inches long. Docking tails lends to consistency and type within the breed.
Regardless
of your views on tail docking, please visit The Council of Docked Breeds at http://www.cdb.org/index.htm.
What's the difference between inbreeding,
line-breeding, and outcrossing?
Many
people look upon inbreeding as an immoral breeding practice. This is a human
taboo, however, not a canine one.
There
are basically three different kinds of breedings you can do when breeding
purebreds; inbreeding, line-breeding, and outcrossing. A basic understanding of
genetics is needed to understand the difference.
Inbreeding
is that of father/daughter, mother/son, brother/sister, and possibly including
first cousin/first cousin and grandparent/grandchild. Inbreeding offers more
consistency in type (offspring will look and act very much like the parents),
and a smaller gene pool (which is an advantage if the gene pool is clean, and a
disadvantage if it's not).
Line-breeding
is that of more distantly related relatives. It falls between inbreeding and
outcrossing.
Outcrossing
is a breeding of two unrelated dogs. Outcrossing will introduce new genes
(increase the gene pool). This can be an advantage if it brings in desirable
genes, or it can be a disadvantage if it brings in undesirable genes (like a
disease that wasn't found in the line before).
No
matter which plan is used for breeding, ANY responsible breeder should know what
phenotypical and genotypical genes or problems are in the breeding dogs'
backgrounds. This will greatly reduce the probability of genetic problems in the
litter.
